With the Abrams sealed with a satin coat, I was now able to move on to the weathering process. I again with a fairly basic, dark brown pinwash, taking care not to overload the model and tint the completed paintwork. I intentionally chose restraint in this step, as I felt that my paint modulation work during the painting phase was the primary weathering effect I wanted to be noticed. After the wash was completed, I then got to work with an enamel paint streaking effect.
This technique has become one of my favourites as a precursor to more substantial earth and mud effects seen on armoured vehicles, I find this effect perfectly recreates the slow buildup of dirt and dust that is seen in many armoured vehicles. To achieve this effect, I airbrushed XF-10 “Flat Brown” and XF-52 “Flat Earth” thinned 3/7 paint to thinner. Onto the lower areas of the model where dirt and dust was most likely to streak down to and collect. Shortly after the dust layer is airbrushed onto the model, enamel thinner is lightly brushed over top before vertical brushstrokes are applied, creating the effect that dirt and dust has been washed away from rain and the streaks are all that are left.
With this approach it is important to only spray thin layers of paint because if too much is applied, it will be difficult to control when attempting to apply the downward brushstrokes. After completing this first step of the enviromental weathering, I could then move on to more substantive mud and dirt effects. To achieve this, I followed the same procedure as seen in my Tiger I project last year. I chose three shades of pigments (a highlight, middle, and shadow tone) along with three complimentary shades of enamel mud effects. Knowing that this vehicle would be based in a cold, damp environment I chose colours that were somewhat darker in an attempt to recreate the correct mud I wanted to depict. The following pigments were chosen: ABTP060 “Trench earth” P414 ‘Track Brown” and ABTP235 “Cargo dust”.
For the application of the pigments, my approach was as follows. I first added clumps of pigment straight from the jar onto areas where I wanted significant mud buildup to occur. After I was satisfied with the initial placement, I then added drops of pigment fixer onto the pigments which wetted them and fixed them in place. This approach can be varied to get a wide range of results. If applying a limited amount of fixer, the pigments will retain their clumpy shape. If more fixer is applied, they will begin to liquify and appear far wetter.
While the pigments are still wet, I then stipple on complimentary colours of enamel mud effects from AK. After this first round of stippling is done, apply vertical brushstrokes to make it appear that the mud has been flung onto the vehicle and slowly drooped down the vehicle. I find that this approach does a great job in ensuring that the mud effects have the proper volume and shape.
I knew that when I started this project that I didn’t want to build a standard desert tan Abrams, and I opted for a woodland scheme instead. Modern armour paint weathers quite differently then ww2 or Cold War armour and as such I needed to take that into account for this build and decided I would take a more subtle approach to the finish of the model and put more focus in the environmental effects.
After a coat of Mr. Surfacer 1500 black to the prime the model, I applied a fairly even coat of Tamiya Lacquer NATO Green. I intensionally made this layer uniform as the paint weathering would entire be done with post-shading. For the post shading, I chose a 80/20 mix of NATO Green with flat yellow. This created a fairly vibrant green tone that would serve as the highlight layer that would isolate details I wanted more focus on. After the highlight layer was completed, I chose a dark green shade to darken the lower sections and recesses of the tank, which balanced the overall post-shading technique. All this work helped to serve as a guideline for the next colours, black and brown.
After the post-shading work was complete, It was time to pick out the elements of the tank that were not finished in the standard NATO camouflage. These parts included the CVTESS equipment, various antennas, and the combat identification panels which were partially hand painted. I also opted to paint some parts of the vehicle in desert tan to help add some visual interest and further break up the colours of the Abrams. These parts were chipped in a dark grey colour, and meant to represent parts that may have been swapped from another vehicle that had seen significant damage or wear.
After this stage had been completed, I sealed my work in a satin clear coat in preparation for decals and weathering.
For my next project, I settled on building Tamiya’s 20 year old M1A2 Abrams. I knew from the get go that I didn’t want to build a 2003 vehicle however and that this would call for some modifications.
I settled on bringing this kit into the future by adding various upgrade parts to depict a SEP V2 vehicle undergoing training in Germany. Lots of photos have been taken of the Germany-based Abrams and there’s always one unifying factor, they look absolutley badass:
For this project, I opted to use a DEF Model SEP V2 conversion set designed for the Dragon kit along with several other pieces to make the Tamiya plastic a convincing 2024 Abrams. Also of note was the Combat Vehicle Tactical Engagement Simulation System (CVTESS) which is equipment fitted during training exercises. I picked up a resin set from Blast Models from France to depict this specialty equipment on the vehicle.
Unlike the Tiger, the Tamiya Abrams is radically more simple and unrefined. This is not necessarily a bad thing as the kit built up quite quickly. One feature missing from the kit is the anti-slip texture that is present on all standing surfaces on the Abrams. This isn’t too much of a surprise, considering that the kit is over 20 years old at this point. To replicate the missing texture, I first masked off the areas in which I didn’t want the anti-slip texture, namely over welds and other details.
The masking was deceptive in how long I thought it would take. I had initially assumed that it would be a quick and easy process but in the end had to be split up over several days. To create the texture, I utilized the same technique I had on the Tiger, Tamiya putty thinned with extra thin cement. I had initially thought that this approach would not produce a rough enough texture to pass as anti-slip, however after heavy stippling and limited standing I think the putty method is worth trying out to achieve this specific element. Only time will tell if it looks realistic under paint.
After completing the anti-slip, the model was ready for the SEP V2 update parts to be added. The more modern variants of the Abrams are absolutely brisling with updates and additions to the basic hull, and it’ll be easiest to add the resin details while the hull is as bare as possible.
The DEF Model update set was designed for the Dragon kit, but is easily adapted to fit the Tamiya plastic. The update kit includes a lot of well detailed resin upgrades and adds a much needed injection of detail to the 20 year old Tamiya offering.
At this stage I began work on the tracks and running gear. This is a fairly straightforward part of the build as the Abrams has a simple suspension setup (compared to some German cats at least). I also picked up a set of T-Rex tracks for this kit while I was in Japan earlier this year with this project in mind. While my prior experiences with T-Rex tracks have been fantastic, this set really bucked the trend unfortunately. Brass pins are utilized in this set and I found that they were too large for the track endcaps and guide horns. This required boring them out slightly to fit the oversized pins. This was an incredibly time consuming and boring process. All told it took me around three days of continuous building to get these assembled. They look great assembled, but I wouldn’t recommend picking these up for your own Abrams build.
After completing the suspension, I moved on to completing the remote weapon station (RWS). This is a really nice resin part that utilized the kit MG and a 3d printed blank fire adapter. it went together fairly smoothly and I love the presence that the .50 cal has on top of the tank.
I also added some various other parts including the side skirts and photo-etched details. The build was definitely shaping up to be a mean looking Abrams!
Next up I moved on to the consiterable amount of stowage that was going to be added to the build. M1’s are very frequently are loaded down with large amounts of stowage for the crew and this build would be no exception. I utilized a resin stowage set from Legend which provides a lot of options to choose from to add detail to the model. Legend makes a few variants of stowage sets and while they are pricey, there are enough pieces included to outfit more than one model.
I recently completed my Tiger 1 and what a project it has been! I started this build in late May and it’s probably been my longest continuous build I’ve completed. After completing the weathering process (link below) I got to work on the final touches, namely building the figures and base.
For the base, I knew from the start that I wanted to convey that this vehicle was set on the Kursk battlefield. To do so, I picked a grassy setting, with the Tiger plowing through a field.
In the end, I think I ended up with a more “marshy” look than a dusty field but I’m still quite happy with the result here. To build the base, I stacked two insulation foam sheets on top of one another then glued styrene sheets on each of the four sides. I then painted each side in a gloss black finish before moving on to the groundwork. For the terrain, I used AK acrylic ground texturing paste. I’ve used this stuff for a few projects now and I’ve been able to get the hang of it and understand its properties better. For the undistrubed ground I settled on a rough texture paste with brown paint added. Conversely, I used a smoother paste for the areas in which the tank would sit and where the treads had upturned the ground. I did this because the rough paste would have a lot of bumps and ridges when dried and as such the tank would look like it would be floating. By using the smooth texture the tank settles down a lot more.
While the terrain paste was drying, I would then stick small grass tuffs into it which was an easy way of getting them attached to the terrain. I made sure to use different types of grass to create variation and ensure that there wasn’t too much uniformity in the ground. After the terrain had dried, I then airbrushed some brown shades onto the ground to hep further create some colour variation in the dirt. The terrain paste dries in a very uniform, unrealistic colour and it took some work to ensure it looked natural. After this was done, I then speckled different pigment shades onto the ground to create even further surface detail. I made sure to use pigments that I had used on the vehicle so that the colours would be consistent.
The Figures:
I then moved on to the figures and while I definitely feel that I need improvement in this area, I’m still fairly happy with how they turned out. With the addition of the figures, all that was left were some final paint touchups before moving everything into the Photo Booth.
Final Thoughts:
To summarize my thoughts on this project: What a build! This has undoubtedly been my most involved project to date and I couldn’t be happier with how it turned out. I knew going in that I wanted to spend the time to get this project right and I think that I’ve done that. Still, there are always things that I might have done differently and I’m looking forward to applying the lessons learned on this build on my future projects. Enjoy the photos below!
The weathering stage of the project was the perfect sweet spot of being challenging but not frustrating. I really pushed myself to use prior techniques I had only experimented with even further and make them centrepieces of how the model was weathered. For the Tiger project I wanted a relatively clean vehicle that had a lot of environmental effects added to it, basically, a lot of mud and oil spills but not a lot of chipping and paint wear.
As I complete more and more armor models I’ve realized that the weathering process starts as soon as paint is laid and that five light effects look so much better than two heavy handed ones. To quickly summarize the effects I used on this project here they are below:
Base coat and camo colour marbling
Postshading (highlights and shadows)
Sponge chipping effects
Dark brown enamel wash
Oil and fuel spills
Airbrushed enamel dirt effects (mud shade and dust shade)
Brushed enamel dirt effects (light, mid, and dark tones)
Pigment application via dusting
Pigment application via speckling
Grass application via enamel dirt effect + thinner mixture
Light dust pigment speckling for blending)
Oil staining in selected areas over top mud and dirt
Ok that was a lot but now it’s time to go into each effect and in my mind how each effect builds on top of the others.
After sealing the model in a Satin varnish, the first effect I applied was a dark brown enamel wash from Ammo designed for dark yellow vehicles (A.MIG-1000). This really helped to bring out the small details that I had spend time creating, specifically the custom weld details.
Next, I turned my focus to the engine deck with the intention of adding significant oil, fuel and grime deposits. I have three products I use religiously for effects like these, all of which are from MIG productions. “Oil and Grease stain mixture”, Engine grime effect” and “Fuel stains” are all fantastic products and I use them on almost every AFV I build. I used several methods to apply them to the model, including as a diluted wash colour, stippled onto the surface, and as a streaking effect as well.
Enamel dusting is rapidly becoming one of my favourite effects and I utilized it on this build as well. The technique involves airbrushing highly diluted enamels onto the model before using a brush dampened with enamel thinner to create downward streaks. This effect is great at replicating dirt and dust that has settled on the vehicle naturally but has begun to wash away due to rain and other activity on the vehicle. I used two shades on this project, XF-10 Flat Brown and XF-52 Flat Earth as my dirt and dust shade respectively. XF-10 is a very dark, muddy colour and as such I limited it to the lower, shaded areas of the vehicle. XF-52 is a lot lighter and does a better job at depicting kicked up dust that falls onto the vehicle as it moves. This colour is also good for fading markings. On the Tiger, you can compare the colour of the balkenkreuz to see how this effect is able to depict general dust and dirt buildup on the vehicle.
Next, I began working on the more involved dirt and mud application on the model. To start I applied some enamel nature effects from Ammo, namely “Kursk Soil ” (A.Mig-1400), “Loose Ground” (A.Mig-1752), along with “Fresh Mud” (A.Mig-1402) and “Damp Earth” (A.Mig-1406) to a lesser extent. These products were roughly brushed onto the lower areas of the model and allowed to somewhat mix with each other in limited areas. 5-10 minutes after application I then began pigment application over top the still wet enamels. I chose four shades of pigments to use. From Abteilung 502 I used “Light European Earth” (ABTP415), “Rubbel Dust” (ABTP234), and “Russian Earth” (ABTP034) along with Mig Productions’ “Track Brown” (P414). To apply pigments to the model, I loaded them onto a wooden stir stick and gently tapped it to cause the pigments to fall onto the model in medium sized clumps. Because the enamel are still wet, this causes the pigments to stick to the model and stay in place. I repeat this process for the four shades, taking care to apply them in the correct area. I used the “Rubbel Dust” and “Russian” Earth” shades as my primary colours here with “Light European Earth” and “Track Brown” serving as highlight and shadow shades.
At this stage the pigments will be very loosely applied to the model and not stay in place for the remainder of the build. To solve this issue, I applied small amounts of enamel thinner to the dry pigments causing them to dampen. This has the effect of binding them to the model when they dry and makes them a lot more durable.
As a side note, you can get very creative with this technique. By varying the amount of thinner you add you can change the texture of the final dried pigment. By adding a lot of thinner, the pigment will almost completely liquify which will look as if liquid mud has splashed onto the vehicle. An alternative approach is to use as little thinner as possible, causing the pigments to dampen, but not liquify fully. This in turn creates an effect that looks like semi-solid clumps of mud and dirt has been flung onto the vehicle and dried in place.
Next, I created a pigment mixture consisting of pigments and pigment fixer in a dish. I loaded up a brush with this mixture and stippled it all over the surface This is done to recreate small pieces of mud and dirt that has been flung onto the vehicle and is more subtle than the previous pigment application. I applied a coat of the four shades listed earlier. This also has the effect of really fixing all the pigments in place.
After letting them model dry out completely for a few days (It takes a long time for all the pigments to dry completely!) I then decided to add some grass effects to the lower surfaces of the model. To do this I whipped up a new mixture of “Loose Ground” along with AK “dried sea grass” (AK8045). I am a huge fan of this grass product, it looks incredibly realistic and there’s a ton of it so it lasts a long time. To apply it to the model, I throughly mixed the grass with the enamel product before grabbing clumps of it and applying to the model with tweezers. Because the grass has been soaked in the enamel effect, it sticks to the model and will dry in place.
The last effect I applied to the model was the addition of some oil stains over top of the dirt and grass effects. To do this I added some of the “Oil and grease stain mixture” mentioned earlier to recessed areas where I wanted oil leaks to show through. I kept this effect focused on the road wheels to depict seals that had been worn down, causing an oil leak. Using a very fine brush, I dragged out small amounts of the stain mixture to the rim.
After completing the main work on the hull, I then moved on to painting and weathering the tracks. I have my workflow for tank track pretty nailed down by this point and this build was no exception. To start, I painted the track with Mr. Metal Color MC212 “Iron”. this is a fantastic base colour for tracks I’ve found. It finishes as a very flat dark grey, however after it’s buffed, it shines very nicely. After applying the base colour, I then added a very messy coat of Vallejo Sienna Claro pigment with a brush. I do this with no fixer or binder, and my goal is to get started working pigments into the track crevices.
Next, I then stippled various enamel earth effects and pigments (mixed with fixer) onto the tracks with no specific pattern. This creates an effect in which the tracks look live they’ve been run through lots of different types of dirt and mud and creates a nice overall weathered effect. I then took a paper towel and dragged it over the track cleats, removing the weathering effects from this area. This also polishes the underlying MC212, causing the paint to shine and creates a nice contrast with the dirty parts of the track. As a final effect, I drag a graphite stick over to of the cleats as well.
Next, I moved on to the tracks that would be fitted to the sides of the turret. Since these would not have seen as much wear as the running tracks, they would need to be weathered in a different way as previously described. As before, I painted them with a MC212 base coat before conducting further weathering. I then utilized two different rust shades to weather these tracks. I utilized a dark rust streaks and light rust wash colour as my two tones that I would work with. The dark rust streaks colour appeared more so like a dark brown and would serve as the basis for future work. I applied it fairly liberally over the tracks, making sure that it flowed into recesses. I then speckled on the light rust wash colour taking care not to overflow the surface. This approach would create highlights in specific areas and create a fairly convincing rust effect in my opinion.
As a final touch, I then polished the exposed edges to simulate rust being worn away on exposed surfaces, creating a nice contrast with the rust tones.
And with that, that’ll be it for this update! A final update of the completed build will be out shortly!
Nomad Models 