Category: Projects

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1:48 Aircraft Projects

RF-4E Phantom II: Riveting

For my next project I wanted to really sink my teeth into one of my most ambitious projects so far, a JASDF RF-4E Phantom II! This build was inspired by the beautiful sea blue phantoms flown by the JASDF up until 2020 when they were retired. For this build I picked the Hasegawa kit as it was the option that the DXM Decal set indicated as suitable.

The Hasegawa kit is lacking in a lot of areas and as such I knew that I wanted to incorporate a significant amount of aftermarket accessories in the build. Aftermarket only gets you so far however and considering that this kit was a 2003 release, it’s safe to say a lot of elbow grease was going to go into this build. Of particular note is the presence of very little riveting details in the Hasegawa plastic. Over 90% of the main surface parts do not have any rivet details, only panel lines. I was not happy with this at all and significant rivet work would be required for this build.

Before I could get started on any kind of assembly, some corrective work was required. There are various parts that need to be removed to depict an accurate RF-4E and several panel lines that need to be filled. The air to air refuelling probe door needs to be deleted along with several other panels molded into the plastic.

To fill in details I used sprue goo, primarily due to the fact that it would be likely that I’d be riveting or scribing over the filled lines. I’ve had bad experiences in the past with putty not taking rivets well and using sprue goo solves this issue, it’s a dream to add missing detail back into.

I then had to remove some other details, namely two large nubs on the upper surfaces of the wings. These were quite a bit of pain to remove as it was hard to remove them with a saw or clippers and quite a bit of material needed to be sanded away. I started out with 120 grit sandpaper and taped away perimeter to prevent loss of detail during the sanding process.

With the required lines patched and the additional details removed, I could now start the first main phase of the build, riveting. As I said before, the OOB kit came with virtually no rivet detail which for me just wouldn’t work. I knew out the gate that achieving a 1:1 representation of the Phantom’s rivets would be overly time consuming and probably not look great so I opted instead to simplify areas where the pattern was too complex.

I started work on the underside of the wing, namely because it would allow me to get in a groove while not being overly visible. Right off the bat, I needed a way to ensure that columns of rivets were the equal distance from one another while being perpendicular to the trailing edge of the flaps. To achieve this I would lay down a piece of 3mm Tamiya flexible tape as parallel as possible to the previous column of rivets. I then made two spacing dots with a pencil to ensure that the next row was the correct distance from the previous one.

After the spacing dots had been completed, I then used a small modelling T-Square to mark out the actual guide lines for the rivets. I was able to brace the upper part of the square against the edge of the model which created a nice 90 degree angle for the lower portion. This method ensured that the rivets were equal distance from one another and perpendicular to the trailing edge of the wing.

For the rest of the rivets, I largely worked on the lower and rear surfaces first and slowly worked my way further up and forward on the fuselage. A particularly time consuming section was the wing root of the upper fuselage. The Phantom has a LOT of access panels and rivets in this area and it was a bear to complete. In the end however, I’m very glad I did as the added detail looks like it’ll stand out quite nicely under a wash.

That’ll be all for now, next up work starts on the cockpit!

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1:48 Aircraft Projects

Bf-109 G-6: Completed Model

After completing the markings for the 109, the next phase of the build was the main weathering process. After sealing the model in a coat of GX100 gloss varnish, I got to work with a dark oil wash.

While the model was very glossy and smooth, I took the time to get some oil streaking effects done, again with oil paints. It had been some time since I had worked with oils and it was nice to return to the medium. I paid particular attention to the underside of the aircraft as this would where the heaviest streaking effects would concentrate.

After completing the oil streaks, I decided that I still wanted some further dirt and grime elements. I then sealed the model in a new product I’ve been trying out, Mr. Topcoat Premium Flat. This is an acrylic spray varnish and I’ve been really liking how nicely this entire line lays down on the model. After the Flat coat was applied, I could get to work on adding some various grime effects around the model.

With these darker grime shades completed, I then added some lighter dust effects on the lower surface of the model to simulate dirt being kicked up during landing and takeoff. With this effect complete I brought the various subassemblies together and completed the model!

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1:48 Aircraft Projects

Bf-109 G-6: Painting

With the completion of the construction phase of the Bf-109 I could move on the priming and painting of the model. Since I was adding HGW rivets for the the first time my normal process was somewhat interrupted and I was thrown a bit for a loop. For those unaware HGW makes various sets of positive rivet decals that can depict tiny rivets on an aircraft. My main question was when was the best point to apply them to the model?

After researching online and asking around it seemed the best course of action was to apply them directly over primer but underneath any metallic colours used for chipping.

I used my go to primer, Mr. Colour 1500 black which laid down a very smooth base for future paint. This primer was also chosen because it would do well to resist the decal setting solution that I would use in the next step.

After allowing the primer to cure fully, I then spent the next several days applying the rivets to the model. Even though they come in large sections that make it easy to cover large areas of the model it’s undeniable that these are time intensive. To start, they don’t have individual carrier film and you’ll have to trim the sheet that you dip into the water in order to limit how much overhang you have to deal with.

This ended up biting me several times as I’m used to having carrier film limited to the area with the decal. It wasn’t until I had removed the decal from the water that I realized that I had a massive area of useless carrier film to work around. This can be a problem in that you can’t really apply the decals that are right next to each other due to the fact that the film overhang gets in the way of the other decal.

All in all though these are pretty minor issues and besides the time commitment I found that they went on pretty nicely with the manufacturer recommended Mr. Mark Softer setting solution. Removing the carrier film was a breeze as well. The rivets had very minimal lifting and the film was very easy to remove. A few dabs with a damp paper towel was enough to remove the adhesive residue left over as well. All in all I think they look pretty sharp!

After the rivets were applied, I then painted a metallic chipping colour. I picked Mr. Colour Super Metallic “Super Duralumin” as it has a really nice sheen and lays down beautifully.

After applying the metallic chipping coat I then added some small amount of chipping fluid where I knew I wanted paint chips to be present. This was a precautionary measure that would guarantee access to the chipping fluid medium underneath the several layers of paint.

Next, I got on to preshading the model in preparation of the final colours. Between the black primer and the silver metallic the shades of the model were very disjointed and I needed to rectify this. To start, I applied some white and black marbling over the entire model using a metal mask tool. This would start to unify the tones present in the model and avoid the contrast between the metallic surfaces and the black primer.

After the initial round of pre-shading was completed I decided to apply a very thin layer of the final colours onto the model. I did this so I could create a template for the camouflage scheme that I could follow later on with a more careful application of the main colours.

After completing this very thin layer, I decided to do a rough panel line preshade. I opted to go this route because while I liked the variation that the stencil templates provided, I felt that this variation was a bit too uniform and I wanted some more elements to effect the final top coat. I loaded up a very thinned down application of Tamiya rubber black and sprayed it onto the model with a 0.15mm nozzle/needle. Overall I’m fairly satisfied with my application of the panel lining here.

I then needed to apply the final colours to serve as a basis for the iconic mottling seen on the majority of 109’s. To do this, I needed to tape off some areas of the model to get a hard edge transition which would be needed for this specific scheme. This was a lot easier said than done as the model was covered in small dabs of masking solution thus making it had to get a crisp line with the masking tape. I started with the light blue fuselage and under side surfaces as the darker greys would cover easier than the lighter shade. The scheme I selected called for RLM 76 as the fuselage colour, however I only had RLM 65 available to me. To re-create a colour closer to 76, I created a mixture of around 70/30 RLM 65 to white paint. Next up was the RLM 75 Grey Violet colour and I also opted to lighten it with a few drops of white to ensure that it would contrast with RLM 74 Grey Green which is a very similar shade which was applied un lightened onto the model.

In the end I was left with what I felt was a very respectable Bf-109 scheme with enough contrast to be interesting yet accurate to the historical colours used.

What I worked on next was the tricky fuselage mottling. This was a phase of the build I wasn’t particularly looking forward to as it’s difficult to pull off this camouflage element convincingly. It’s also fairly prevalent in German aircraft so there’s no avoiding it.

I think my application went fairly well. From the colour profiles and reference photos I noticed that the mottling didn’t touch the upper camouflage paint all that much and it was fairly substantial in some areas.

After completing the mottling, I then removed the liquid mask to expose the chipping effects underneath. While it would have made sense to do so after the markings were painted I felt that it would be too difficult to get a solid line with the masks that I planned to use. I can always add chipping effects at later time over top of the painted on markings. I removed the masks for another reason as well, I wanted to expose the HGW rivets and see how they contrasted with the painted surfaces. Do do this I took a 8000 and 12,000 grit sanding pad and sanded the surface of the paint. This removed the paint directly over top of the raised rivets but is high enough in grit that no scratches are left behind. If anything this helps to create a smooth surface in preparation for a gloss coat.

I also took this time to paint up the prop and spinner. I really like the effect I was able to get here even if it is pretty weathered. This vehicle is meant to depict a G-6 that’s both seen a lot of action and has been sitting in the Italian sun for a while. I’ll definitely need to come back to address some errors but I think this is a good baseline to build off of.

Next up was the markings and for this project I treated myself to a Montex mask set instead of decals for the markings. This was my first time using masks extensively in an aircraft build and while my application wasn’t perfect I’m still fairly happy with the result I was able to achieve. Even on my first attempt the painted markings look so much better than decals!

That’s where I’ll leave this update as I move on to the stencilling and weathering stages, Thanks for looking!

Categories
1:48 Aircraft Projects

Bf-109 G-6: Construction

While waiting for some aftermarket parts to arrive for another build, I decided to take up Tamiya’s 1/48 Bf-109 G-6 as a fun little side project. I had heard great things about this kit and the inclusion of a fully detailed engine made this particular offering by Tamiya somewhat interesting. In fact, in 2023 I reviewed this kit and was somewhat pleased with what was included in the box.

Tamiya Bf-109 G-6 In Box Review

Tamiya’s 2017 G-6 model is a well-stocked kit perfect for both new and experienced modellers, despite lacking features like photo-etched parts. The model has a quality molding, clear instructions, and three standard colour options. While criticized for its minor shortcomings, it’s considered a worthwhile model for…

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Construction, unsurprisingly, starts with the cockpit. Things went pretty smoothly and it wasn’t long before I was laying some paint. I knew that I wanted to incorporate some chipping effects so after the major construction as done on the cockpit I sprayed down a layer of aluminum to serve as a chipping base.

I also opted to add some additional wiring to the cockpit area as I felt that the detail was a bit sparse. The added detail was particularly noticeable on the control stick:

Next, I whipped up a generic “German aircraft interior grey” after spraying the cockpit pieces with the chipping medium. I wasn’t too specific about getting the exact shade right as most of this work will be hidden in shadow when the fuselage is sealed up. I used Tamiya acrylics at this stage which I’ve found chip very nicely. I primarily used a brush moistened with water, although in some areas I opted to used an old airbrush needle to get more fine, controllable chips. I then move on to painting the various small details in the cockpit. The Bf-109 is a bit unique in that it has a rather colourful cockpit with blue and yellow pieces of equipment present.

The result at this stage is VERY stark although after subsequent weathering and varnishes the colours will be muted somewhat. I was particularly happy with how the control stick turned out as in my reference photos I saw some brass elements that really pop in the grey monotony that is the rest of the cockpit.

I then applied a VMS satin varnish over the entire cockpit in preparation for decals and weathering. For the decals I used several pieces from Anyz to depict cockpit placards and switch lettering. I find that these decals really add a lot if life to the model and look great in a busy cockpit. I chose to use AK’s weathering pencils as the primary medium for weathering as I wanted to experiment a bit further with these after trying them out a bit on my last aircraft build, Eduard’s F6F Hellcat:

F6F-5 Hellcat: Completed Build

A few weeks ago I completed Eduard’s F6F-5 Hellcat and I’m finally getting around to post the photos and compile my thoughts about the build. If you’re just here for the photos check them out below 👇 As for my thoughts, this build was a pretty fun, short project. I really didn’t invest a ton…

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I feel like these weathering pencils have interesting pros and cons. For depicting built up levels of dust, dirt and grime they are great. In a confined area like a cockpit however, I’m not sure they are the right choice with the kind of results I’m after. They do give off a VERY stylistic result however and while some people might love the result I managed to get here I wouldn’t be surprised if some people hated it too. As for me I’m a bit in the middle, I do like what I achieved here but I think I want to go back to oils and enamels for my next project.

I definitely achieved the dirty/dusty look that I was going after but I feel like this is still pretty stark result. More refinement and practice will be needed to get my cockpits where I want them however. I will say though, when all the pieces are added together the result isn’t half bad:

Some might notice the HGW belts in the above photos and in addition to the belts, I’m also planning on using HGW rivets in this build. For all the pros the Tamiya kit offers it still doesn’t include a fully riveted model like Eduard does. To rectify this and to experiment with a new product I picked up a full rivet set to see if this is a product I’ll consider purchasing in the future. Although this build is meant to be a fun side project to keep me occupied, it’s also a test bed for future builds.

After major assembly was completed on the cockpit I sealed the cockpit halves and moved on to the engine assembly. The DB 605 engine is really nicely molded however I felt it was lacking some wiring detail. To rectify this I added a combination of 0.1mm copper wire and 0.2mm lead wire in various places to busy it up a bit. Although it’s not period specific, I used some avionic connectors from Anyz instead of having them go straight into the plastic.

Because the engine had various different elements all in different colours I keep things detached to allow for easy painting. To start, I painted the engine block in MC214 “Dark Iron” These Mr. Metal Colours are really nice because they are bluffable and have a really nice sheen when polished. The “Dark Iron” shade was exactly what I was looking for and finishes as a very dark, almost black, grey.

I painted the engine mounting arms with RLM 02 and after adding a few accents of aluminum it was time to bring everything together for a mockup:

I have to admit the DB 605 builds up to a pretty nice looking engine! After the painting was completed I hit the engine section with another coat of VMS Satin varnish for the decals and weathering. For the decals I did opt to used some of the kit supplied decals as there are some specific markings that need to be added for the engine to be accurate. Along with the kit decals, I also added some Anyz placards although the majority of them ended up not being visible in the final product. After decals I opted to revert back to oils for the weathering and used some Abteilung 502 “Bitume” mixed with straight black for a very dark grime wash. I left the weathering at that as I wanted a dirty, yet restrained, look to the weathering on the engine section. After applying a final flat coat to seal everything together I dry brushed some graphite powder over the engine block to represent wear on the edges and give a nice metallic look.

Now that the cockpit and engine subassemblies were complete, I was able to move on to further steps of the build, namely building out the rest of the fuselage and the control surfaces. The control surfaces needed some work as the HGW rivet set comes with decals for the fabric surfaces which required removal of the molded on details. I put together the frontal section including the prop and spinner along with the oil cooler assembly that hangs beneath the engine. I also got to work building up the engine panels that would be posed in the open position above the engine. With these additions this build was looking more and more like a Bf-109!

After verifying fit of these components it was time to disassemble these parts in preparation for painting. At first I was a bit at a loss for how to mask off the engine section. It’s a fairly complex shape and it’s difficult to seal of the entire compartment. To solve this issue, I first wrapped the engine in tape and then used masking fluid to seal off the large gaps in engine cowling, forward of the cockpit. I’m pretty pleased with this solution but only time will tell if I was successful in my approach.

That’s it for now, next up is the priming and application of the HGW rivets!

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1:35 Armor Projects Uncategorized

M1A2 Abrams SEP V2: Construction

For my next project, I settled on building Tamiya’s 20 year old M1A2 Abrams. I knew from the get go that I didn’t want to build a 2003 vehicle however and that this would call for some modifications.

I settled on bringing this kit into the future by adding various upgrade parts to depict a SEP V2 vehicle undergoing training in Germany. Lots of photos have been taken of the Germany-based Abrams and there’s always one unifying factor, they look absolutley badass:

For this project, I opted to use a DEF Model SEP V2 conversion set designed for the Dragon kit along with several other pieces to make the Tamiya plastic a convincing 2024 Abrams. Also of note was the Combat Vehicle Tactical Engagement Simulation System (CVTESS) which is equipment fitted during training exercises. I picked up a resin set from Blast Models from France to depict this specialty equipment on the vehicle.

Unlike the Tiger, the Tamiya Abrams is radically more simple and unrefined. This is not necessarily a bad thing as the kit built up quite quickly. One feature missing from the kit is the anti-slip texture that is present on all standing surfaces on the Abrams. This isn’t too much of a surprise, considering that the kit is over 20 years old at this point. To replicate the missing texture, I first masked off the areas in which I didn’t want the anti-slip texture, namely over welds and other details.

The masking was deceptive in how long I thought it would take. I had initially assumed that it would be a quick and easy process but in the end had to be split up over several days. To create the texture, I utilized the same technique I had on the Tiger, Tamiya putty thinned with extra thin cement. I had initially thought that this approach would not produce a rough enough texture to pass as anti-slip, however after heavy stippling and limited standing I think the putty method is worth trying out to achieve this specific element. Only time will tell if it looks realistic under paint.

After completing the anti-slip, the model was ready for the SEP V2 update parts to be added. The more modern variants of the Abrams are absolutely brisling with updates and additions to the basic hull, and it’ll be easiest to add the resin details while the hull is as bare as possible.

The DEF Model update set was designed for the Dragon kit, but is easily adapted to fit the Tamiya plastic. The update kit includes a lot of well detailed resin upgrades and adds a much needed injection of detail to the 20 year old Tamiya offering.

At this stage I began work on the tracks and running gear. This is a fairly straightforward part of the build as the Abrams has a simple suspension setup (compared to some German cats at least). I also picked up a set of T-Rex tracks for this kit while I was in Japan earlier this year with this project in mind. While my prior experiences with T-Rex tracks have been fantastic, this set really bucked the trend unfortunately. Brass pins are utilized in this set and I found that they were too large for the track endcaps and guide horns. This required boring them out slightly to fit the oversized pins. This was an incredibly time consuming and boring process. All told it took me around three days of continuous building to get these assembled. They look great assembled, but I wouldn’t recommend picking these up for your own Abrams build.

After completing the suspension, I moved on to completing the remote weapon station (RWS). This is a really nice resin part that utilized the kit MG and a 3d printed blank fire adapter. it went together fairly smoothly and I love the presence that the .50 cal has on top of the tank.

I also added some various other parts including the side skirts and photo-etched details. The build was definitely shaping up to be a mean looking Abrams!

Next up I moved on to the consiterable amount of stowage that was going to be added to the build. M1’s are very frequently are loaded down with large amounts of stowage for the crew and this build would be no exception. I utilized a resin stowage set from Legend which provides a lot of options to choose from to add detail to the model. Legend makes a few variants of stowage sets and while they are pricey, there are enough pieces included to outfit more than one model.