Category: Projects

Where various build projects are documented and posted.

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1:48 Aircraft Projects

Bf-109 G-6: Painting

With the completion of the construction phase of the Bf-109 I could move on the priming and painting of the model. Since I was adding HGW rivets for the the first time my normal process was somewhat interrupted and I was thrown a bit for a loop. For those unaware HGW makes various sets of positive rivet decals that can depict tiny rivets on an aircraft. My main question was when was the best point to apply them to the model?

After researching online and asking around it seemed the best course of action was to apply them directly over primer but underneath any metallic colours used for chipping.

I used my go to primer, Mr. Colour 1500 black which laid down a very smooth base for future paint. This primer was also chosen because it would do well to resist the decal setting solution that I would use in the next step.

After allowing the primer to cure fully, I then spent the next several days applying the rivets to the model. Even though they come in large sections that make it easy to cover large areas of the model it’s undeniable that these are time intensive. To start, they don’t have individual carrier film and you’ll have to trim the sheet that you dip into the water in order to limit how much overhang you have to deal with.

This ended up biting me several times as I’m used to having carrier film limited to the area with the decal. It wasn’t until I had removed the decal from the water that I realized that I had a massive area of useless carrier film to work around. This can be a problem in that you can’t really apply the decals that are right next to each other due to the fact that the film overhang gets in the way of the other decal.

All in all though these are pretty minor issues and besides the time commitment I found that they went on pretty nicely with the manufacturer recommended Mr. Mark Softer setting solution. Removing the carrier film was a breeze as well. The rivets had very minimal lifting and the film was very easy to remove. A few dabs with a damp paper towel was enough to remove the adhesive residue left over as well. All in all I think they look pretty sharp!

After the rivets were applied, I then painted a metallic chipping colour. I picked Mr. Colour Super Metallic “Super Duralumin” as it has a really nice sheen and lays down beautifully.

After applying the metallic chipping coat I then added some small amount of chipping fluid where I knew I wanted paint chips to be present. This was a precautionary measure that would guarantee access to the chipping fluid medium underneath the several layers of paint.

Next, I got on to preshading the model in preparation of the final colours. Between the black primer and the silver metallic the shades of the model were very disjointed and I needed to rectify this. To start, I applied some white and black marbling over the entire model using a metal mask tool. This would start to unify the tones present in the model and avoid the contrast between the metallic surfaces and the black primer.

After the initial round of pre-shading was completed I decided to apply a very thin layer of the final colours onto the model. I did this so I could create a template for the camouflage scheme that I could follow later on with a more careful application of the main colours.

After completing this very thin layer, I decided to do a rough panel line preshade. I opted to go this route because while I liked the variation that the stencil templates provided, I felt that this variation was a bit too uniform and I wanted some more elements to effect the final top coat. I loaded up a very thinned down application of Tamiya rubber black and sprayed it onto the model with a 0.15mm nozzle/needle. Overall I’m fairly satisfied with my application of the panel lining here.

I then needed to apply the final colours to serve as a basis for the iconic mottling seen on the majority of 109’s. To do this, I needed to tape off some areas of the model to get a hard edge transition which would be needed for this specific scheme. This was a lot easier said than done as the model was covered in small dabs of masking solution thus making it had to get a crisp line with the masking tape. I started with the light blue fuselage and under side surfaces as the darker greys would cover easier than the lighter shade. The scheme I selected called for RLM 76 as the fuselage colour, however I only had RLM 65 available to me. To re-create a colour closer to 76, I created a mixture of around 70/30 RLM 65 to white paint. Next up was the RLM 75 Grey Violet colour and I also opted to lighten it with a few drops of white to ensure that it would contrast with RLM 74 Grey Green which is a very similar shade which was applied un lightened onto the model.

In the end I was left with what I felt was a very respectable Bf-109 scheme with enough contrast to be interesting yet accurate to the historical colours used.

What I worked on next was the tricky fuselage mottling. This was a phase of the build I wasn’t particularly looking forward to as it’s difficult to pull off this camouflage element convincingly. It’s also fairly prevalent in German aircraft so there’s no avoiding it.

I think my application went fairly well. From the colour profiles and reference photos I noticed that the mottling didn’t touch the upper camouflage paint all that much and it was fairly substantial in some areas.

After completing the mottling, I then removed the liquid mask to expose the chipping effects underneath. While it would have made sense to do so after the markings were painted I felt that it would be too difficult to get a solid line with the masks that I planned to use. I can always add chipping effects at later time over top of the painted on markings. I removed the masks for another reason as well, I wanted to expose the HGW rivets and see how they contrasted with the painted surfaces. Do do this I took a 8000 and 12,000 grit sanding pad and sanded the surface of the paint. This removed the paint directly over top of the raised rivets but is high enough in grit that no scratches are left behind. If anything this helps to create a smooth surface in preparation for a gloss coat.

I also took this time to paint up the prop and spinner. I really like the effect I was able to get here even if it is pretty weathered. This vehicle is meant to depict a G-6 that’s both seen a lot of action and has been sitting in the Italian sun for a while. I’ll definitely need to come back to address some errors but I think this is a good baseline to build off of.

Next up was the markings and for this project I treated myself to a Montex mask set instead of decals for the markings. This was my first time using masks extensively in an aircraft build and while my application wasn’t perfect I’m still fairly happy with the result I was able to achieve. Even on my first attempt the painted markings look so much better than decals!

That’s where I’ll leave this update as I move on to the stencilling and weathering stages, Thanks for looking!

Categories
1:48 Aircraft Projects

Bf-109 G-6: Construction

While waiting for some aftermarket parts to arrive for another build, I decided to take up Tamiya’s 1/48 Bf-109 G-6 as a fun little side project. I had heard great things about this kit and the inclusion of a fully detailed engine made this particular offering by Tamiya somewhat interesting. In fact, in 2023 I reviewed this kit and was somewhat pleased with what was included in the box.

Tamiya Bf-109 G-6 In Box Review

Tamiya’s 2017 G-6 model is a well-stocked kit perfect for both new and experienced modellers, despite lacking features like photo-etched parts. The model has a quality molding, clear instructions, and three standard colour options. While criticized for its minor shortcomings, it’s considered a worthwhile model for…

Keep reading

Construction, unsurprisingly, starts with the cockpit. Things went pretty smoothly and it wasn’t long before I was laying some paint. I knew that I wanted to incorporate some chipping effects so after the major construction as done on the cockpit I sprayed down a layer of aluminum to serve as a chipping base.

I also opted to add some additional wiring to the cockpit area as I felt that the detail was a bit sparse. The added detail was particularly noticeable on the control stick:

Next, I whipped up a generic “German aircraft interior grey” after spraying the cockpit pieces with the chipping medium. I wasn’t too specific about getting the exact shade right as most of this work will be hidden in shadow when the fuselage is sealed up. I used Tamiya acrylics at this stage which I’ve found chip very nicely. I primarily used a brush moistened with water, although in some areas I opted to used an old airbrush needle to get more fine, controllable chips. I then move on to painting the various small details in the cockpit. The Bf-109 is a bit unique in that it has a rather colourful cockpit with blue and yellow pieces of equipment present.

The result at this stage is VERY stark although after subsequent weathering and varnishes the colours will be muted somewhat. I was particularly happy with how the control stick turned out as in my reference photos I saw some brass elements that really pop in the grey monotony that is the rest of the cockpit.

I then applied a VMS satin varnish over the entire cockpit in preparation for decals and weathering. For the decals I used several pieces from Anyz to depict cockpit placards and switch lettering. I find that these decals really add a lot if life to the model and look great in a busy cockpit. I chose to use AK’s weathering pencils as the primary medium for weathering as I wanted to experiment a bit further with these after trying them out a bit on my last aircraft build, Eduard’s F6F Hellcat:

F6F-5 Hellcat: Completed Build

A few weeks ago I completed Eduard’s F6F-5 Hellcat and I’m finally getting around to post the photos and compile my thoughts about the build. If you’re just here for the photos check them out below 👇 As for my thoughts, this build was a pretty fun, short project. I really didn’t invest a ton…

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I feel like these weathering pencils have interesting pros and cons. For depicting built up levels of dust, dirt and grime they are great. In a confined area like a cockpit however, I’m not sure they are the right choice with the kind of results I’m after. They do give off a VERY stylistic result however and while some people might love the result I managed to get here I wouldn’t be surprised if some people hated it too. As for me I’m a bit in the middle, I do like what I achieved here but I think I want to go back to oils and enamels for my next project.

I definitely achieved the dirty/dusty look that I was going after but I feel like this is still pretty stark result. More refinement and practice will be needed to get my cockpits where I want them however. I will say though, when all the pieces are added together the result isn’t half bad:

Some might notice the HGW belts in the above photos and in addition to the belts, I’m also planning on using HGW rivets in this build. For all the pros the Tamiya kit offers it still doesn’t include a fully riveted model like Eduard does. To rectify this and to experiment with a new product I picked up a full rivet set to see if this is a product I’ll consider purchasing in the future. Although this build is meant to be a fun side project to keep me occupied, it’s also a test bed for future builds.

After major assembly was completed on the cockpit I sealed the cockpit halves and moved on to the engine assembly. The DB 605 engine is really nicely molded however I felt it was lacking some wiring detail. To rectify this I added a combination of 0.1mm copper wire and 0.2mm lead wire in various places to busy it up a bit. Although it’s not period specific, I used some avionic connectors from Anyz instead of having them go straight into the plastic.

Because the engine had various different elements all in different colours I keep things detached to allow for easy painting. To start, I painted the engine block in MC214 “Dark Iron” These Mr. Metal Colours are really nice because they are bluffable and have a really nice sheen when polished. The “Dark Iron” shade was exactly what I was looking for and finishes as a very dark, almost black, grey.

I painted the engine mounting arms with RLM 02 and after adding a few accents of aluminum it was time to bring everything together for a mockup:

I have to admit the DB 605 builds up to a pretty nice looking engine! After the painting was completed I hit the engine section with another coat of VMS Satin varnish for the decals and weathering. For the decals I did opt to used some of the kit supplied decals as there are some specific markings that need to be added for the engine to be accurate. Along with the kit decals, I also added some Anyz placards although the majority of them ended up not being visible in the final product. After decals I opted to revert back to oils for the weathering and used some Abteilung 502 “Bitume” mixed with straight black for a very dark grime wash. I left the weathering at that as I wanted a dirty, yet restrained, look to the weathering on the engine section. After applying a final flat coat to seal everything together I dry brushed some graphite powder over the engine block to represent wear on the edges and give a nice metallic look.

Now that the cockpit and engine subassemblies were complete, I was able to move on to further steps of the build, namely building out the rest of the fuselage and the control surfaces. The control surfaces needed some work as the HGW rivet set comes with decals for the fabric surfaces which required removal of the molded on details. I put together the frontal section including the prop and spinner along with the oil cooler assembly that hangs beneath the engine. I also got to work building up the engine panels that would be posed in the open position above the engine. With these additions this build was looking more and more like a Bf-109!

After verifying fit of these components it was time to disassemble these parts in preparation for painting. At first I was a bit at a loss for how to mask off the engine section. It’s a fairly complex shape and it’s difficult to seal of the entire compartment. To solve this issue, I first wrapped the engine in tape and then used masking fluid to seal off the large gaps in engine cowling, forward of the cockpit. I’m pretty pleased with this solution but only time will tell if I was successful in my approach.

That’s it for now, next up is the priming and application of the HGW rivets!

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1:35 Armor Projects Uncategorized

M1A2 Abrams SEP V2: Construction

For my next project, I settled on building Tamiya’s 20 year old M1A2 Abrams. I knew from the get go that I didn’t want to build a 2003 vehicle however and that this would call for some modifications.

I settled on bringing this kit into the future by adding various upgrade parts to depict a SEP V2 vehicle undergoing training in Germany. Lots of photos have been taken of the Germany-based Abrams and there’s always one unifying factor, they look absolutley badass:

For this project, I opted to use a DEF Model SEP V2 conversion set designed for the Dragon kit along with several other pieces to make the Tamiya plastic a convincing 2024 Abrams. Also of note was the Combat Vehicle Tactical Engagement Simulation System (CVTESS) which is equipment fitted during training exercises. I picked up a resin set from Blast Models from France to depict this specialty equipment on the vehicle.

Unlike the Tiger, the Tamiya Abrams is radically more simple and unrefined. This is not necessarily a bad thing as the kit built up quite quickly. One feature missing from the kit is the anti-slip texture that is present on all standing surfaces on the Abrams. This isn’t too much of a surprise, considering that the kit is over 20 years old at this point. To replicate the missing texture, I first masked off the areas in which I didn’t want the anti-slip texture, namely over welds and other details.

The masking was deceptive in how long I thought it would take. I had initially assumed that it would be a quick and easy process but in the end had to be split up over several days. To create the texture, I utilized the same technique I had on the Tiger, Tamiya putty thinned with extra thin cement. I had initially thought that this approach would not produce a rough enough texture to pass as anti-slip, however after heavy stippling and limited standing I think the putty method is worth trying out to achieve this specific element. Only time will tell if it looks realistic under paint.

After completing the anti-slip, the model was ready for the SEP V2 update parts to be added. The more modern variants of the Abrams are absolutely brisling with updates and additions to the basic hull, and it’ll be easiest to add the resin details while the hull is as bare as possible.

The DEF Model update set was designed for the Dragon kit, but is easily adapted to fit the Tamiya plastic. The update kit includes a lot of well detailed resin upgrades and adds a much needed injection of detail to the 20 year old Tamiya offering.

At this stage I began work on the tracks and running gear. This is a fairly straightforward part of the build as the Abrams has a simple suspension setup (compared to some German cats at least). I also picked up a set of T-Rex tracks for this kit while I was in Japan earlier this year with this project in mind. While my prior experiences with T-Rex tracks have been fantastic, this set really bucked the trend unfortunately. Brass pins are utilized in this set and I found that they were too large for the track endcaps and guide horns. This required boring them out slightly to fit the oversized pins. This was an incredibly time consuming and boring process. All told it took me around three days of continuous building to get these assembled. They look great assembled, but I wouldn’t recommend picking these up for your own Abrams build.

After completing the suspension, I moved on to completing the remote weapon station (RWS). This is a really nice resin part that utilized the kit MG and a 3d printed blank fire adapter. it went together fairly smoothly and I love the presence that the .50 cal has on top of the tank.

I also added some various other parts including the side skirts and photo-etched details. The build was definitely shaping up to be a mean looking Abrams!

Next up I moved on to the consiterable amount of stowage that was going to be added to the build. M1’s are very frequently are loaded down with large amounts of stowage for the crew and this build would be no exception. I utilized a resin stowage set from Legend which provides a lot of options to choose from to add detail to the model. Legend makes a few variants of stowage sets and while they are pricey, there are enough pieces included to outfit more than one model.

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1:35 Armor Projects

Tiger I Early: Completed build

I recently completed my Tiger 1 and what a project it has been! I started this build in late May and it’s probably been my longest continuous build I’ve completed. After completing the weathering process (link below) I got to work on the final touches, namely building the figures and base.

For the base, I knew from the start that I wanted to convey that this vehicle was set on the Kursk battlefield. To do so, I picked a grassy setting, with the Tiger plowing through a field.

In the end, I think I ended up with a more “marshy” look than a dusty field but I’m still quite happy with the result here. To build the base, I stacked two insulation foam sheets on top of one another then glued styrene sheets on each of the four sides. I then painted each side in a gloss black finish before moving on to the groundwork. For the terrain, I used AK acrylic ground texturing paste. I’ve used this stuff for a few projects now and I’ve been able to get the hang of it and understand its properties better. For the undistrubed ground I settled on a rough texture paste with brown paint added. Conversely, I used a smoother paste for the areas in which the tank would sit and where the treads had upturned the ground. I did this because the rough paste would have a lot of bumps and ridges when dried and as such the tank would look like it would be floating. By using the smooth texture the tank settles down a lot more.

While the terrain paste was drying, I would then stick small grass tuffs into it which was an easy way of getting them attached to the terrain. I made sure to use different types of grass to create variation and ensure that there wasn’t too much uniformity in the ground. After the terrain had dried, I then airbrushed some brown shades onto the ground to hep further create some colour variation in the dirt. The terrain paste dries in a very uniform, unrealistic colour and it took some work to ensure it looked natural. After this was done, I then speckled different pigment shades onto the ground to create even further surface detail. I made sure to use pigments that I had used on the vehicle so that the colours would be consistent.

The Figures:

I then moved on to the figures and while I definitely feel that I need improvement in this area, I’m still fairly happy with how they turned out. With the addition of the figures, all that was left were some final paint touchups before moving everything into the Photo Booth.

Final Thoughts:

To summarize my thoughts on this project: What a build! This has undoubtedly been my most involved project to date and I couldn’t be happier with how it turned out. I knew going in that I wanted to spend the time to get this project right and I think that I’ve done that. Still, there are always things that I might have done differently and I’m looking forward to applying the lessons learned on this build on my future projects. Enjoy the photos below!

Categories
1:35 Armor Projects

Tiger I Early: Weathering

The weathering stage of the project was the perfect sweet spot of being challenging but not frustrating. I really pushed myself to use prior techniques I had only experimented with even further and make them centrepieces of how the model was weathered. For the Tiger project I wanted a relatively clean vehicle that had a lot of environmental effects added to it, basically, a lot of mud and oil spills but not a lot of chipping and paint wear.

As I complete more and more armor models I’ve realized that the weathering process starts as soon as paint is laid and that five light effects look so much better than two heavy handed ones. To quickly summarize the effects I used on this project here they are below:

  • Base coat and camo colour marbling
  • Postshading (highlights and shadows)
  • Sponge chipping effects
  • Dark brown enamel wash
  • Oil and fuel spills
  • Airbrushed enamel dirt effects (mud shade and dust shade)
  • Brushed enamel dirt effects (light, mid, and dark tones)
  • Pigment application via dusting
  • Pigment application via speckling
  • Grass application via enamel dirt effect + thinner mixture
  • Light dust pigment speckling for blending)
  • Oil staining in selected areas over top mud and dirt

Ok that was a lot but now it’s time to go into each effect and in my mind how each effect builds on top of the others.

After sealing the model in a Satin varnish, the first effect I applied was a dark brown enamel wash from Ammo designed for dark yellow vehicles (A.MIG-1000). This really helped to bring out the small details that I had spend time creating, specifically the custom weld details.

Next, I turned my focus to the engine deck with the intention of adding significant oil, fuel and grime deposits. I have three products I use religiously for effects like these, all of which are from MIG productions. “Oil and Grease stain mixture”, Engine grime effect” and “Fuel stains” are all fantastic products and I use them on almost every AFV I build. I used several methods to apply them to the model, including as a diluted wash colour, stippled onto the surface, and as a streaking effect as well.

Enamel dusting is rapidly becoming one of my favourite effects and I utilized it on this build as well. The technique involves airbrushing highly diluted enamels onto the model before using a brush dampened with enamel thinner to create downward streaks. This effect is great at replicating dirt and dust that has settled on the vehicle naturally but has begun to wash away due to rain and other activity on the vehicle. I used two shades on this project, XF-10 Flat Brown and XF-52 Flat Earth as my dirt and dust shade respectively. XF-10 is a very dark, muddy colour and as such I limited it to the lower, shaded areas of the vehicle. XF-52 is a lot lighter and does a better job at depicting kicked up dust that falls onto the vehicle as it moves. This colour is also good for fading markings. On the Tiger, you can compare the colour of the balkenkreuz to see how this effect is able to depict general dust and dirt buildup on the vehicle.

Next, I began working on the more involved dirt and mud application on the model. To start I applied some enamel nature effects from Ammo, namely “Kursk Soil ” (A.Mig-1400), “Loose Ground” (A.Mig-1752), along with “Fresh Mud” (A.Mig-1402) and “Damp Earth” (A.Mig-1406) to a lesser extent. These products were roughly brushed onto the lower areas of the model and allowed to somewhat mix with each other in limited areas. 5-10 minutes after application I then began pigment application over top the still wet enamels. I chose four shades of pigments to use. From Abteilung 502 I used “Light European Earth” (ABTP415), “Rubbel Dust” (ABTP234), and “Russian Earth” (ABTP034) along with Mig Productions’ “Track Brown” (P414). To apply pigments to the model, I loaded them onto a wooden stir stick and gently tapped it to cause the pigments to fall onto the model in medium sized clumps. Because the enamel are still wet, this causes the pigments to stick to the model and stay in place. I repeat this process for the four shades, taking care to apply them in the correct area. I used the “Rubbel Dust” and “Russian” Earth” shades as my primary colours here with “Light European Earth” and “Track Brown” serving as highlight and shadow shades.

At this stage the pigments will be very loosely applied to the model and not stay in place for the remainder of the build. To solve this issue, I applied small amounts of enamel thinner to the dry pigments causing them to dampen. This has the effect of binding them to the model when they dry and makes them a lot more durable.

As a side note, you can get very creative with this technique. By varying the amount of thinner you add you can change the texture of the final dried pigment. By adding a lot of thinner, the pigment will almost completely liquify which will look as if liquid mud has splashed onto the vehicle. An alternative approach is to use as little thinner as possible, causing the pigments to dampen, but not liquify fully. This in turn creates an effect that looks like semi-solid clumps of mud and dirt has been flung onto the vehicle and dried in place.

Next, I created a pigment mixture consisting of pigments and pigment fixer in a dish. I loaded up a brush with this mixture and stippled it all over the surface This is done to recreate small pieces of mud and dirt that has been flung onto the vehicle and is more subtle than the previous pigment application. I applied a coat of the four shades listed earlier. This also has the effect of really fixing all the pigments in place.

After letting them model dry out completely for a few days (It takes a long time for all the pigments to dry completely!) I then decided to add some grass effects to the lower surfaces of the model. To do this I whipped up a new mixture of “Loose Ground” along with AK “dried sea grass” (AK8045). I am a huge fan of this grass product, it looks incredibly realistic and there’s a ton of it so it lasts a long time. To apply it to the model, I throughly mixed the grass with the enamel product before grabbing clumps of it and applying to the model with tweezers. Because the grass has been soaked in the enamel effect, it sticks to the model and will dry in place.

The last effect I applied to the model was the addition of some oil stains over top of the dirt and grass effects. To do this I added some of the “Oil and grease stain mixture” mentioned earlier to recessed areas where I wanted oil leaks to show through. I kept this effect focused on the road wheels to depict seals that had been worn down, causing an oil leak. Using a very fine brush, I dragged out small amounts of the stain mixture to the rim.

After completing the main work on the hull, I then moved on to painting and weathering the tracks. I have my workflow for tank track pretty nailed down by this point and this build was no exception. To start, I painted the track with Mr. Metal Color MC212 “Iron”. this is a fantastic base colour for tracks I’ve found. It finishes as a very flat dark grey, however after it’s buffed, it shines very nicely. After applying the base colour, I then added a very messy coat of Vallejo Sienna Claro pigment with a brush. I do this with no fixer or binder, and my goal is to get started working pigments into the track crevices.

Next, I then stippled various enamel earth effects and pigments (mixed with fixer) onto the tracks with no specific pattern. This creates an effect in which the tracks look live they’ve been run through lots of different types of dirt and mud and creates a nice overall weathered effect. I then took a paper towel and dragged it over the track cleats, removing the weathering effects from this area. This also polishes the underlying MC212, causing the paint to shine and creates a nice contrast with the dirty parts of the track. As a final effect, I drag a graphite stick over to of the cleats as well.

Next, I moved on to the tracks that would be fitted to the sides of the turret. Since these would not have seen as much wear as the running tracks, they would need to be weathered in a different way as previously described. As before, I painted them with a MC212 base coat before conducting further weathering. I then utilized two different rust shades to weather these tracks. I utilized a dark rust streaks and light rust wash colour as my two tones that I would work with. The dark rust streaks colour appeared more so like a dark brown and would serve as the basis for future work. I applied it fairly liberally over the tracks, making sure that it flowed into recesses. I then speckled on the light rust wash colour taking care not to overflow the surface. This approach would create highlights in specific areas and create a fairly convincing rust effect in my opinion.

As a final touch, I then polished the exposed edges to simulate rust being worn away on exposed surfaces, creating a nice contrast with the rust tones.

And with that, that’ll be it for this update! A final update of the completed build will be out shortly!